Surfing can be like a sanctuary-- a safe place you can go to and forget everything else that is going on. For some people surfing becomes their whole life and they choose to spend all there time looking for the perfect wave. For me surfing has always been something that I do alongside all the other things that are going on in my life. It helps me calm down, inspires my work and how I relate to other people and most importantly it makes me happy. When I put together a clip I connect to the feeling that I get from surfing and try to express it in a way that others can relate to. Enjoy!
Saturday, August 1, 2015
Off the Grid
The first thing you realise when you get off the boat on the Mentawai Islands is that your phone has lost any kind of connection to the outside world. The first few days you may nervously wonder around the island with your smartphone in hope for at least one bar of reception so that you can tell your family that you are still alive, but except if you have one of these old (and really powerful) Nokias you are lost! It usually takes about 3 days until all facebook/instagram checking compulsions cease, but once you've gone through the initial withdrawal period the experience is liberating. Finally you get to read that book you've been procrastinating and you actually get to know the people around you. Surfing the perfect turquoise waves on one of the countless islands adds the final ingredient to the exhilarating experience of being in the present moment. Enjoy!
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